Gain access to the Editor’s Digest at no cost
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, curates her top picks in this weekly newsletter.
Aside from his home country of Tanzania, 32-year-old entrepreneur Justice George Kaundama is only interested in one other nation.
“China-Africa is the future,” he asserts, seated on the terrace of Shamwaa, the Tanzanian eatery he established last year in Guangzhou. “We are destined to become major partners.”
In 2018, Kaundama first arrived in the southern Chinese city, which has long been referred to as China’s “Little Africa”. After dedicating two years to studying Mandarin, he launched a logistics firm that ships Chinese products back to Tanzania. His goal in coming to China was to achieve prosperity. Now, over six years later, he believes he is on track to reaching that goal.
Kaundama is just one of the many African migrants attracted to Guangzhou by its extensive wholesale markets, linking African buyers with the vast array of goods produced by China’s sprawling manufacturing sector.
Estimates of the African population in Guangzhou vary greatly, due in part to the mix of permanent residents and transient traders making short visits to the city. Before the Covid-19 pandemic, officials estimated the number to be between 10,000 and 20,000.
Although this community is relatively small in a city with a permanent population of nearly 19 million, Africa’s impact on Guangzhou, which has served as China’s primary foreign trade hub for centuries, is unmistakable. Traders here can place large orders for traditional North African gandoura tunics and Nigerian gele head wraps, and then enjoy cuisine from across the continent at eateries nestled in the alleyways of Xiaobei and the industrial outskirts of Baiyun.
Despite documented incidents of racism and evictions during the Covid-19 crisis, which prompted many to leave and endangered the existence of the long-established community, it appears to be making a recovery.
This resurgence, African traders explained, is due to the irresistible allure of China’s vast manufacturing base. On a continental scale, trade between China and Africa nearly reached $300 billion last year, with Beijing now being the continent’s top trading partner.
While Covid-19 presented significant challenges, Kaundama describes the period as “very difficult”. He recalls stand-offs between security personnel and evicted residents, many of whom were left homeless. “The belief was that African people were spreading Covid. So, everyone was afraid of African people,” he recollects.
Even now, after residing in his current upscale neighborhood for two years, he is frequently questioned by security guards upon returning home.
However, African residents who spoke with the Financial Times noted a marked improvement in the situation since the pandemic was brought under control. They highlighted quicker issuance of visas and work permits, a sentiment supported by two visa agents handling African applications, and mentioned that both business registration processes and authorities’ overall demeanor had eased.
Yoofi Greene, who arrived in Guangzhou from Ghana in 2014 to study international trade, remarked that Chinese individuals were showing a growing interest in African culture. He teaches a weekly Ghanaian azonto dance class to local students, who then showcase their skills at increasingly popular African-themed nights at the city’s clubs.
The growing and diversified interests of Africans in China contrast with the swift departure of Westerners. This also dispels concerns that the rise of ecommerce platforms like Alibaba, which directly link African markets to Chinese factories, would result in a decrease in face-to-face interactions and diminish the number of Africans residing in the city.
Josephine, a Kenyan entrepreneur who operates two restaurants in Guangzhou, described her initial experience in China as “challenging”. She had to adjust to locals staring at her and moving seats when she sat next to them on public transportation.
“Initially, I found that the police were very strict and not very welcoming to us. However, things have changed now,” she stated. “I have faced ups and downs, but my 14-year stay in China has been quite rewarding. Guangzhou has been a welcoming place for me.”
william.langley@ft.com